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Glastonbury Tor |
The
tor at Glastonbury in Avalon, on the
Somerset plain, in England, claims
the entire countryside. Visible
for miles, it rises up to signal the presence of Glastonbury Abbey, purported site
of the tomb of King Arthur and Queen Guinevere until 1539, when the monastery
fell victim to King Henry’s VIII’s pillaging, both to cement his schism with
the Church of Rome and to finance wars with the French.
When we visited the abbey about two weeks
ago, we also learned that the Glastonbury Tor and Abbey align with Stonehenge along an ancient
pathway called a ley line, about which various theories on their origin and
function abound. (In her epic Outlander series, author Diana Gabaldon
has linked the energy fields attributed to ley lines to the ability of dowsers
to find water, homing pigeons to navigate, and, at spots where they converge,
time barriers to open up, allowing
time travel for those who are genetically disposed to it. See An Echo in the Bone,
pp. 452 – 454.) Whatever the
ultimate significance of ley
lines, their association with
energy and mystical experiences captures for me the sense of profound
connection I feel on the site of a past or present event of great personal significance.
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Stones on threshold of
Shakespeare's birthplace |
When I am able to visit places that have
impacted my thought and view of the world, but that I had only read about, I am forever tethered to that spot. In July, I stood on the same
stone floor as William Shakespeare stepped on thousands of time as a child. I stayed mired to
the spot for several minutes, as if the stones themselves had become giant suction
cups that gripped my feet. In
those seconds, snippets of lines from the plays remind me to be true to myself,
that time and the hour run through the roughest day, that a secret man of blood
exists in everyone, that all the world’s a stage, and all the men and women in
it merely players. Yet again, I
admire Shakespeare as a person so connected himself to the human condition that
his words and characters live and breathe six hundred years later. And that’s only one example.
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Air raid shelter in the walls
surrounding Cardiff Castle |
In the last few years, I have been moved in
the same way many times. I have
walked the worn path of St. Francis in his chapel in Assisi, keying in on the
imperative of a simple life. Under
the blazing Italian sun, I ambled the streets of Pompeii in the shadow of
Vesuvius, reflecting on the transitory nature of life, replete one second,
imprisoned in lava the next. Near
Cardiff Castle in Wales, I wandered through the air raid shelters built during World
War II into the stone walls that surround the castle. I smelled the musty air,
heard my words echo back to me, and admired the courage of the men, women, and
children who waited, terrorized, as the bombs exploded. Even the brief foray into the tunnels left me claustrophobic.
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Barracks at Birkenau |
It’s a discomfort I have felt in a few
other locations. As I rode in the
same elevator Adoph Hitler used to access his Eagle’s Nest retreat in the
Bavarian Alps, aware of the mirrored walls, the gold handrails and the lush carpet, I wondered how many of the people who rode with Hitler may have felt
uneasy. Then, worse still, the
results of Hitler’s handiwork in the barracks of Birkenau, Auschwitz II. The victims whisper through the thin
walls, the uneven, plank bunks and the single row of latrines. “Don’t take your secure, comfortable
life for granted,” they remind me.
“Even decent people can do monstrous things or allow bad things to
happen. Fight oppression.”
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Elevator to Hitler's Eagles' Nest |
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Latrines at Birkenau |
So it seems that I have established my own
ley lines. The first set run
through time from the ground that felt the footsteps of St. Francis, Shakespeare, the citizens
of Pompeii and Cardiff, the victims of Auschwitz, and yes, even Adolph Hitler, all
the way to me. A
second set ties together the significant places that connect us to our children, scattered
west, east, and south, and takes the edge off distance. The Glastonbury Tor has come to encapsulate all of that
connectivity, past and present.
More on the present next time.
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